CMLS 2008: October 1 - 3, Minneapolis:
Larson/Sobotka's List of Sights and Activities

Check out the official CMLS site for details about the conference, hotels, registration, etc.

by Brian Larson

Early October can be a beautiful time to visit the Minneapolis/St. Paul area and the surrounding countryside. (We make no representations or warranties about the weather, however.)

Here are some sights and activities you may wish to check out if you are extending your stay before or after the CMLS conference. I've added some personal notes to the ones I know from my own experience.

Museums/Historical Sites

The MSP area grew up originally because of agricultural and natural resources in the region. MSP was a hub of market-making and transportation for these industries. The area's economy is now highly diversified, including financial services, biotech, education, high-tech, etc. If you are interested in the area's history, there are plenty of options in the cities.

Mill City Museum: This museum, constructed on the Mississippi River in the ruins of a flour mill that burned down, is a popular attraction for locals and visitors.

Minnesota State Capitol: The State Capitol is a beautiful example of the type that are modeled on the U.S. Capitol. Cass Gilbert, architect of the United States Supreme Court building (and many private residences on St. Paul's Crocus Hill), also designed the State Capitol. In both, he created marble spiral staircases that appear to be floating on air.

St. Paul's Cathedral: St. Paul was built by the hard work of Irish and German immigrants, many of them Roman Catholic. The Catholic church had an important presence in the city from its beginning, and Archbishop John Ireland's labor of love, the St. Paul Cathedral, is often confused with the State Capitol, probably because it is higher and has the bigger dome. John Ireland Blvd leads directly from the seat of Church power to the seat of temporal power.

Segway History Tours: Learn to drive a Segway and get a history tour of Minneapolis's mill district at the same time. (I'm afraid to try this myself, for fear of looking even more foolish and clumsy than I normally do.)

Fort Snelling: The United States established this fort, adjacent to the airport at the junction of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers, to control that important strategic point in the early nineteenth century. I'm not sure whether the historical reenactments continue into the fall or not.

Cultural attractions

MSP has more theater seats per capita than Boston. It is a regional theater center, as well as being the home to many well-known musical artists. It also boasts surprisingly rich museum collections for a town so far from either Coast.

Walker Art Museum: The Walker is one of the premier modern art museums in North America. In addition to its own collections, it was jointly responsible for the national touring exhibit featuring the works of Frida Kahlo (which will not be here in October, unfortunately). Its sculpture garden is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Reach them via a 15 minute walk through parks from the conference hotel.

The Guthrie Theatre: Founded by the great English director Tyrone Guthrie nearly 50 years ago, the Guthrie has a national reputation. Lately, the talk has been more about its new facility in downtown Minneapolis: some admire its amazing lounge, cantilevered over the Mississippi River; others criticize it for looking like an IKEA store. I fall into the former category. Schedule of shows is available online.

The Minneapolis Institute of Arts: The MIA is a fine regional art museum, with a collection from the pre-historic to the modern.

Concerts and Music Events:

• First Avenue. Where Prince (or whatever he calls himself now) got his start. The venue offers an eclectic mix of performers, and it's walking distance from the conference hotel.
• Dakota Jazz Club and Restaurant. Excellent jazz/dinner club just a few blocks from the conference hotel.
• Classical music options include the Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra (shows around CMLS include a lot of Beethoven), the Minnesota Orchestra (featuring the three big German 'B's), and the Minnesota Opera (doing Il Trovatore the weekend before CMLS).
• Prairie Home Companion. If you are a fan of Garrison Keillor, you should know that the Prairie Home Companion's season opener is Saturday, October 4, at the Fitzgerald Theater, and it's accompanied by the annual meatloaf supper and street dance. (Yes, I said meatloaf supper and street dance.) Tickets for the show will be hard to come by (but I may be able to help if you are interested). Street dance details are still forthcoming.

Sporting attractions

As of the end of July, the Twins baseball team is neck-and-neck with Chicago for the lead in the AL Central Division. We hope the Twins will be in the playoffs about the time of CMLS. If so, you might be able to buy very expensive scalped tickets to see them. Info will be available at the Twins' site.

But the real sport in Minnesota is ice hockey. (Five of the twelve schools in the collegiate power-hockey conference, the WCHA, are in Minnesota.) Our professional team, the Minnesota Wild, plays in a terrific arena in St. Paul, where every game since the team's birth in 2000 has been sold out. The Wild have pre-season games scheduled there for Tuesday, September 30 (Chicago Blackhawks), and Wednesday, October 1 (Bufflo Sabres). Check out the Wild site for details and let me know if you want tickets, as I may be able to help out.

Dining opportunities

Here are some of our favorite restaurants in Minneapolis/St. Paul. This page includes only restaurants I've visited multiple times. If you want a broader list, you can check the TripAdvisor top 20 for Minneapolis or top 20 for Saint Paul or the Zagat listings for Minneapolis. I've included links to the Zagat and TripAdvisor review pages, where possible. Where Zagat numbers appear, they are as of July 20, 2008, and they appear in this order: Food/Decor/Service.

Lucia's Restaurant and Wine Bar: This restaurant has been a passionate favorite of mine for more than 20 years. My love for it may be more related to the memories I've made there than to the food, atmosphere, or service, though, so I'm rating it outside the rest, below. The menu changes weekly, emphasizes local fresh ingredients, and usually offers only four or five entrees from which to choose. Not every menu item is a home run, but the ambiance is perfect for a romantic supper or intimate conversational dinner with friends. Note: Portion sizes are 'foodie small,' so expect to eat one of each course. TripAdvisor reviews: 4.5/5. Zagat: 27/21/25.

Chambers Kitchen: My favorite restaurant in town at the moment. A Jean-Georges restaurant in a funky little hotel. The hotel's first floor includes a free art gallery of modern art works from the collection of Ralph Burnet (founder of Coldwell Banker Burnet and now big into funky hotel development). The ambiance and food are terrific. Try to dine upstairs if you want to enjoy the art. TripAdvisor reviews: 4/5. Zagat: 25/25/23.

Sanctuary: This is my second favorite restaurant in town, but in terms of food quality and the chef's imagination, it's second to none here. TripAdvisor reviews: 4.5/5.

Hell's Kitchen: Close to the conference hotel, this is a favorite spot for breakfast. TripAdvisor reviews: 4/5. Zagat: 25/18/20.

Saint Paul restaurants: Not sure how many folks will have cars or will want to take the $20-25 taxi ride to St. Paul from downtown Minneapolis. If you do, I can recommend several restaurants there. W.A. Frost has beautiful outdoor dining (though it may be chilly for that in the first week of October) and good food all the time; great after a walking tour of Crocus Hill. (TripAdvisor reviews: 4/5.) Pazzaluna is high-brow Italian, but worth every penny. Right downtown in St. Paul. (TripAdvisor reviews: 4/5.) Cafe Latte has heavenly desserts and a terrific soup selection, but as it's almost across the street from my law school, so I ate there every other night for four years... I have not been back for a couple years. (TripAdvisor reviews: 4/5.)

Natural beauty

We have neither mountains nor oceans to make our natural scenery dramatic. We do have lovely landscapes, however, and thousands of beautiful lakes, of course. Many of these sites provide hiking, sailing, canoeing, and sea-kayaking opportunities (but be sure to check availability in advance - as early October is a little late in the season).

Minnehaha Falls: When Czech composer Antonin Dvorak visited the midwest, he was inspired by the scenery to write beautiful music. It is said Minnehaha Falls, near the Mississippi River in Minneapolis, inspired a theme for his Violin Sonatina.

Apostle Islands/Bayfield, Wisconsin: I think this is the most beautiful spot in the Midwest. About four hours' drive from MSP, the Apostle Islands are a handful of emeralds cast into Lake Superior from the northern tip of Wisconsin. The Bayfield CVB site has lots of information. The 47th Annual Bayfield Apple Festival is a favorite attraction for folks throughout the region, and it runs Oct 3-5 - perfect timing!

Duluth: At the southwest end of Lake Superior are Duluth and its sister-city, Superior, WI. Two hours' drive north of MSP, the Twin Ports have been a major international port for shipping grain and iron ore for more than a century. Lake Superior itself is a wonder - the largest lake in the world, it contains 10 percent of the world's fresh water. Interesting sites in the area include the Duluth Lift Bridge and Split Rock Lighthouse.

St. Croix River/Lake St. Croix: The St. Croix River joins the Mississippi just south of MSP, in Prescott, WI. Just north of their union is beautiful Lake St. Croix, a great place for a boat cruise and sunset dinner. Further north, the St. Croix River offers canoeing opportunities (but none are organized this late in the year, I think), and the hiking/rock scrambling around Taylor's Falls is terrific.

Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: The University of Minnesota built its landscape arboretum in Chanhassen (30 minutes west of downtown Minneapolis) as a place to develop varieties of plants to be hardy through Minnesota's legendary winters. During the spring, summer, and fall, it's more of an Eden, and definitely worth a visit.

Mississippi River/Lake Pepin: We can't tell the number of times folks from other parts of the country appear surprised to learn that the Mississippi gets its start in northern Minnesota. South of MSP, after the Minnesota and St. Croix Rivers join it, the Mississippi starts to take on the epic dimensions for which it's famous. A drive south on the Wisconsin side is a great afternoon excursion, and Harley aficionados make this their choice for their Flood Runs. Stop for lunch or dinner at the Harbor View Cafe in Pepin.

Wisconsin Dells: Formed after the end of the last ice age and resulting from erosion caused by a gigantic lake of glacial melt water, the Dells are a popular tourist destination for families from throughout the region.

Shopping, Antiques, and the Like

The Mall of America: I think every tourist should visit this spot once, unless you're from Edmonton (in which case you'll find our little mall rather quaint). I emphasize the once, because I don't care for walking around inside if the weather is nice.

Nicollet Mall: The core of downtown Minneapolis is Nicollet Mall. Sidewalk dining (though not the finest food in the city) provides great people watching. The usual stores are available either on the street or via the many shopping malls that open onto it. Your conference hotel is at the Mall's southern end. At it's northern end, you can catch light rail to the Mall of America.

IKEA: If you are in a town without one, and you have already resolved to visit the Mall of America, I suggest a detour across the parking lot to visit the IKEA store. Don't confuse this with the Guthrie Theater, please.

Grand and Summit Avenues, St. Paul: Shops, bars, and restaurants line Grand Avenue in St. Paul between Dale and Snelling. At the Dale-end is Crocus/Cathedral Hill, where many of St. Paul's finest mansions sit, and they continue along Summit Avenue, which runs back to Snelling Ave, parallel to Grand. (You'll also pass my law school alma mater - William Mitchell.) It's a nice walking tour if the weather is kind.

Other fun stuff

The Minnesota Zoo: I'm not a fan of zoos (they seem cruel to me), but the Minnesota Zoo is one of the more tolerable. Under 30 minutes' drive from downtown Minneapolis, it has a new Russian bear exhibit that everyone is very excited about. I have not yet seen it.

Science Museum of Minnesota: This facility's perch on the bluff over the Mississippi in downtown St. Paul makes it special. In other respects, it's just a normal, generally cool science museum.

Oktoberfest in New Ulm, MN: This little German town, less than 90 minutes outside Minneapolis, celebrates Oktoberfest in style (thanks to the local breweries).